DC Power Supply Variable, 30V 10A Adjustable Switching Regulated DC Bench Power Supply with High Precision 4-Digits LED Display, 5V/2A USB Port, Coarse and Fine Adjustments Jesverty SPS-3010

Bought this to carry out minor fault finding and repairs on older electrical equipment like cassette decks and consolesWorking fine the last few weeks, good adjustability, reliable and worth the money

Supplies constant current/voltage. It’s a good size to see the display well, and also small enough to use in a tight space. Has an on/off function for the current/volts so you can switch the supply off/on without turning the unit off - very useful feature.

It looks good seems to work ok. It was good value for money. The only thing that a see when it was delivered was the USB port was bent. I did manage to get a plug into it and it seemed to straighten up a bit. I have not manage to try it as yet but the features seem really good. It is reasonably small in size so it does not take up much space on a bench..

Never used a bench power supply before but this was easy to set up and use. Was able to power my Raspberry pi while flashing the firmware and was very handy for setting up my canbus while everything was on the bench. Great product well built very happy

How long is going to last I don’t know, but at the moment works perfectly. Used to charge li-ion batteries, testing car brake light. Perfect

The media could not be loaded.

good

UPDATE: The first unit I received had an issue with the Voltage rotary encoder, whereby once the unit had warmed up, it would only increment the number regardless of which direction the knob was turned. It became impossible to reduce the voltage.At this price point, having a 0-120V 3A model is amazing. 0-240 would be better for this market, but something this cheap that can go from delivering 3.3V for a MCU all the way up to 120V for testing SMPSs is an incredibly welcome addition to my workspace - if a little nerve wrecking.Good things:The display is clear and bright (digits), showing the set values when turned off and the current values when output is on. The power meter simply reads ‘OFF’ until output is switched on, at which point it is the product of the two numbers above. Handy to have, but I find the big ‘OFF’ to be the best part of this gauge.The knobs are pushable rotary encoders, where one detent is exactly proportional to changing the selected digit by 1. When you punch in, the selected digit flashes quickly. If you select the 1s and increment up past 9, it rolls over the 10s digit next to it which is great BUT, over 99.99V the decimal place shifts to the right, so you lose one digit after it and crucially your selected digit moves too! So if you’re incrementing the 1s, going over 99 you immediately start incrementing the 10s instead, even if you turn it back down. Just something to be aware of.Adjusting the voltage/current while the output is on works well, just be aware of the ease of adding 100V!The unit is light, upright design to save space, not especially deep and has a hard power switch on the front. The binding posts are proper binding posts, but they’re pretty low down. I hang mine over the front of another instrument atop which it is stacked, so that I can reach the connections properly. There is no pointless handle on top so you can even stack above them.The fan seems to be temperature controlled, and is detectable but really not loud at all. It intakes from the rear and exhausts through the sides.Included in the box is a good quality IEC cable and some short but good quality banana-to-croc-clip leads.Issues:The documentation is vague. It explains how to use lots of features, but doesn’t explain what those features do. What happens when you turn on OPN mode? The instructions don’t tell you. It seems to set the power-on state (output can be automatically switched on when AC is present), but who knows.The display, while clear and easy to read and navigate, is poorly implemented. The digits are great, but the indicator lights are far too dim. You have to look closely to see if protections are on.You can adjust the brightness, but this is done by turning both Voltage and Current knobs together. EXACTLY together. I mean, if you don’t turn them one click at the very same millisecond, it won’t register it. This means the only real way of adjusting is to frantically spin both knobs until it happens to catch them at the same time, at which point you lose all fine control and the options basically become ‘dim’ or ‘bright’.If you do manage to adjust the brightness, the digits and telltale lights are adjusted together, making the latter even harder to see if turned down.Big output capacitance is not decoupled when switched off. The bleed resistor, if present, is tiny. Connect a voltmeter and switch the output off, you’ll be waiting numbers of minutes for it to go back down to zero. Be aware of this if changing voltages on the fly as you could accidentally overvolt something sensitive. Also makes higher voltages particularly lethal, and it has normal (not insulated for hv) binding posts. Be very careful!